Blog

  • Day 9 – Kuching to Mulu

    Up early because our bags are picked up at 8am.  We paid last night so we can have breakfast and go straight into the Permai van to the airport.  It’s less than an hour.  Domestic check-in is fast and we are at the gate before our ATR-72 (Wings of Love) arrives.

    SSC_0074

    Descent into Mulu:
    SSC_0075SSC_0076

    It’s just over an hour over rain forest and large scale agriculture.  Tarmac landing strip.

    The terminal is simple and our luggage is out first.  A lady with a truck takes us to the resort (1km or so) and Jane arranges for her to pick us up Thurday 22nd.

    You enter the park over a 1 track wide suspension bridge and reception is efficient.  They have arranged a single Chalet for us for the whole period, so no moves and splits as originally communicated via email.
    SSC_0077

    It’s a bit enormous.  Large living room, 2x bedrooms for 4x people, kitchen, etc.  We take it very easy and some even sleep:
    SSC_0083 SSC_0084

    Enormous rain comes down, and we meet some Canadians who shelter on our patio and come to admire the house.  They’re from Vancouver.

    Thank God they have spag-bol:

    SSC_0080 SSC_0079

    Out first animal encounters:
    SSC_0082SSC_0081

    Big tree:
    SSC_0078

    In the evening after dinner we should do the evening walk and fortunately it stopped raining.  Henry, our guide, tells us that he will take us a different route because of the fire ants on the forest floor.  I talk to him and he asks about England.  With the help of all involved we manage to spot a large number of animals:
    CSC_0077 CSC_0078
    Mating stick insects ad a large gecko.

    CSC_0079 CSC_0080
    Poisonous caterpillars (do not touch!)

    CSC_0082 CSC_0081
    Stick insects and another stripy gecko.

    CSC_0084 CSC_0085
    Another gecko and a large snail.

    CSC_0087CSC_0088
    Left a kingfisher and right a different sleeping bird.  Just above head height over the path.

    SSC_0091 CSC_0089
    A toad and a frog.  These frogs are responsible for 40% of the forest noise (wak? wak? wak? all night long)

    SSC_0090 CSC_0092
    Look closely: A very large spider on the tree and another surprised gecko.

    We do the tour together with an English family from Lancashire.  Three very nice kids.  Girl has a horse, about to receive school results.  Boy into sailing, about to by RS200 with a friend. Husband bridge engineer, involved in Sizewell-B build.

    We also see fireflies (at arms length) and luminous leaves and twigs (due to fungi) as well as a luminous mushroom.

     

    Reward after night walk – large milkshakes:
    SSC_0076

  • Day 8 – Satang Island tour

    CSC_0659
    One of the squirrels you see at breakfast in Permai.

    9am At the boat house.  We join and english family (Matt and Jacky) and their two kids for the 3-in-1 tour.  We start dolphin watching again but this time it’s very successful.  We see many of them in large groups and get some nice photos (as far as possible).
    CSC_0662 CSC_0661

    There are lots of fishermen here and our guide says they don’t mind the dolphins at all:
    SSC_0663 CSC_0660

    We continue up river to go round the island and moor at the village we saw the day before.  We have a short tour.  Lots of wood and a football pitch that disappears under water quite often!
    SSC_0666 SSC_0665

    Funny fishes with long snouts swimming there.  Our guide says swimming here is a bad idea because of the crocks.

    Next stop – mangrove forest to spot crocodiles.  We spot a juvenile immediately sliding into the water and then nothing.  Our guide says that with the high tide they are normally at the bottom.
    SSC_0668

    We carry on via bird island to the Satang island ad anchor next to a rocky shore.  Snorkeling is ok, not the best visibility today, but we see 3x kinds of fish (brown, stripy and spotty with a yellow head).
    SSC_0670 CSC_0671

    We stop off at the beach on Santos where they collect the turtle eggs to protect them and have lunch there.
    SSC_0672SSC_0673

     Then it’s back to Permai.  We get the kite out and it flies well with Alex on the rope.
    CSC_0675 SSC_0674

    Just before I want to leave Emma gets hit by a jellyfish.

    The lady at the restaurant (remember the pineapple yesterday) hands us over to one of the resort people who gets us a bowl of vinegar and cotton wool.  This works well and Emma spends most of the day dabbing it.

    When Emma and I get back, it’s clear that monkeys have been in the cabin.  They have stolen an apple and left one half-eaten in the middle of the floor.  They have been sitting eating on the table, and then on Emma’s bed.  I clean up and Emma insists that we swap beds.

    Here is what’t left of the apples – not much!
    CSC_0676

  • Day 7 – At the beach and Mangrove tour

    SSC_0486 CSC_0487Another day.  Last minute decision – we go the the 2nd beach which is closer to our hut.  Emma makes a sandcastle with a moat and a bridge.  I fish but so close in-shore they are too small and just nibble the snail from my hook.  The snails we use for bait are truly well armoured and Alex and I really need to hit them very hard to break the shells.

    SSC_0490 SSC_0489
    After lunch we have plenty of time to wash and do diaries and we are at the boat for our mangrove tour very early.

    SSC_0492 SSC_0491
    A tractor for moving luggage and a huge pineapple.

    Look closely: A small monitor lizard eating a crab.
    Look closely: A small monitor lizard eating a crab.

    SSC_0497 CSC_0496
    We have the blue boat with Cindy as our guide.  An italian couple with 2x kids join us.  There are loads of mud skippers and blue crabs here.

    SSC_0498 SSC_0495
    The village on the island and a floating fishery.  Lots of crocodiles here so nobody swims.

    SSC_0494 SSC_0499
    Santubong in the background and a tug anchored offshore because of approaching bad weather.

    SSC_0500
    Alex’ favourite drink.

    Update: While having dinner this cheeky bat was cruising through the restaurant every minute or so.  I caught it with flash:
    CSC_0484